Modern and delicate, rose gold is increasingly popular in jewelry. Used for everyday jewelry as well as exceptional pieces, it flourished in Russia in the 19th century and then enjoyed its golden age in Europe and the United States in the 1920s. The success of antique and vintage jewelry is naturally accompanied by a strong comeback of rose gold in current trends. But where does its unique color come from, and what is its value?
What is rose gold?
Rose gold jewelry gets its unique reflections from the proportions of its alloy. Gold, too soft to be used pure in jewelry, is actually combined with copper and silver. An 18-karat piece of jewelry is made up of 75% gold and 25% other metals that give it its rigidity.
Varying the proportion of silver and copper in the alloy also varies the color of the jewelry. An equal proportion of copper and silver (12.5% each) produces yellow gold. More silver and less copper (15% silver and 10% copper, for example) makes it possible to create a piece of jewelry in white gold or white gold.
By increasing the proportion of copper to 20% and 5% silver, you get rose gold.
Rose gold jewelry is marked with the same hallmarks as yellow gold jewelry. 18-karat gold is thus represented by an eagle's head.
Price per kilo of rose gold
Whether the gold is yellow, white, or rose, its value is defined by its carat weight. An 18-karat rose gold piece has the same fine gold content as an 18-karat yellow gold piece. Its price per kilo or gram will therefore depend on the price of gold, set daily by the London Stock Exchange based on supply and demand.
To value a piece of rose gold jewelry, the challenge is the same as for any piece of jewelry: first, knowing how to distinguish between real gold and gold-plated gold.
In addition to the jewelry's intrinsic value, the prestige of its original manufacturer will of course be added. Cartier, in particular, contributed significantly to the popularization of yellow gold in the 20th century. In the 19th century, Fabergé created the first famous rose gold creations, reserved for the Russian imperial family at the time.
The valuation of an 18-carat rose gold jewel will take into account the history of the jewel, its rarity, and the appeal the model arouses among enthusiasts or collectors.
Rose gold, rare or not?
The alloy used to give gold jewelry a pink hue involves a higher proportion of copper than silver. Copper is less precious than silver, gold, or platinum, but more precious than all other metals.
One of its main characteristics is its hardness, superior to that of silver, and of course much superior to that of gold, which is, on the contrary, renowned for its flexibility and softness. Jewelers who create rose gold jewelry must therefore deal with this characteristic, which requires great expertise in setting precious stones.
A rose gold piece of jewelry can thus derive its rarity and value from the fine goldsmithing and jewelry work required to create it.
Because rose gold is so trendy, contemporary rose gold jewelry is plentiful on the market. On the other hand, some older pieces can be rare and sought-after: among them, rose gold jewelry dating back to before the 19th century, due to their rarity, but also iconic pieces like the tank ring or the Trinity ring by Cartier.
Want to sell a rose gold piece of jewelry and want to know its value? Gemme Jewelers, specializing in gold purchases, antique jewelry, and gemstone appraisals, will be able to estimate the value of your jewelry from a jewelry perspective.
