True miniature works of art, cameos are making a comeback among lovers of antique and vintage jewelry. Do you own a cameo and are wondering about its value? Gemme Jewelry can tell you everything you need to know about the criteria and techniques for appraising antique cameos.
Definition and meaning of a cameo
Originating in antiquity, the art of the cameo was particularly popular in Europe in the 19th century. It involves a technique of bas-relief engraving on noble materials: fine stone, mother-of-pearl, coral, or ivory. The female face depicted in profile is one of the most common motifs. But cameos depicting historical figures, landscapes, or mythical creatures are also found.
When the cameo trend reasserted itself in the 19th century, a wide variety of jewelry and accessories were adorned with it: vintage brooches, but also rings, pendants, vintage earrings, and signet rings. Cameos can be mounted on gold, platinum, or silver jewelry.
Factors Influencing Cameo Value
As with any valuation of antique jewelry, the appraisal of a cameo is based on criteria of quality, rarity, and authenticity. Less valuable imitations are the result of less meticulous and mass-produced work, mounting on non-precious metals, and a casting technique rather than sculpting.
• Materials
Non-authentic cameos can be made of resin, glass, or plastic. The value of an authentic cameo lies in the quality and nobility of the carved or painted material: fine stones such as lapis lazuli or agate, coral, lava stone, mother-of-pearl, and porcelain. The traditional cameo is also mounted on gold or platinum.
• Rare Motifs
Female faces in profile are the most common representations on cameos, as are certain mythical scenes such as the Round of the Three Graces. Collector demand for certain sought-after subjects, such as historical portraits or less common mythological motifs, can influence the cameo's value.
• Period
Antique cameos are the most valuable, due to their age, history, and rarity. 19th-century cameos are more sought-after than contemporary cameos. Among the most recent pieces, there are also many non-handcrafted imitations, laser-carved from worthless materials.
• Fineness of the Carving
The quality of the carving includes the depth of the bas-relief as well as the profusion and finesse of the details. If it's a face, pay attention to the representation of hair, jewelry, and floral accessories, which add complexity to the design.
• Condition
Any appraisal of pre-owned gold jewelry is based in part on an assessment of the jewelry's condition. Cameos are no exception to the rule: pieces in excellent condition are more valuable than cracked or restored cameos.
Evaluation Techniques
Knowing where to sell your gold jewelry requires an initial understanding of its value. Certain tips can help you identify the period of a cameo and assess its overall condition.
• Dating a Cameo
Careful observation of the motif allows you to distinguish typical Victorian faces with straight noses, portraits before 1860 with their typically Roman noses, and contemporary cameos with small or even upturned noses.
Mythological scenes generally do not date from the ancient period, but can range from the 18th to the 20th century.
When the cameo is mounted on gold-plated jewelry, it is almost certainly after 1840, the year gold electroplating was invented.
The cameo's setting is also an indicator of its period. It was preferred to be narrow and simple in the Victorian era, while cameo frames in later decades were more ornate, sometimes set with pearls.
• Assessing the Condition of a Cameo
Examining the cameo with a magnifying glass and light allows you to observe its reflections and thickness to confirm its material. This technique also reveals any cracks or inclusions that could affect its value. Finally, testing the cameo's temperature is one way to distinguish resin and plastic from authentic mother-of-pearl or stone pieces.
Gemme Jewelry Stores offers you a free appraisal of your pre-owned or antique jewelry. Entrust your cameos to a gemologist expert in jewelry art history to confirm an initial estimate!
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